"Welcome" to Syria....

-Video of 360 degree view of Aleppo from citadel with seemingly 'firery' sermon in background
...is the phrase we have heard over and over since our arrival here about 36 hours ago, but none were as sweet to hear as the one from the gruff, overweight, chainsmoking boarder guard as he stamped our passport.
A long, at times very uncomfortable overnight bus ride landed us at the Syrian/Turkey boarder. We had secured our visa long in advance as was required however we still got the run around for about an hour before we got stamped and headed through (US passports do seem to recieve extra scruity). We were apprehensive upon arrival, if for no other reason unsure of how we would be recieved here as americans. Our first stop was conservative Aleppo (4 million people), which vias with the Syrian Capital of Damascus as the longest continuously occupied city in the world. It was a full five senses experience. Loud, dirty, and chaotic, just begin to describe our intial take of this place. We got checked into a dingy, super funky, but cheap hotel. We dropped our bags and struck out for some more sensory overload. Aleppo is famous for it souqs (covered markets) selling everything one could ever want or imagine, and some things you never thought existed. Headscarves are the norm here, and many women wear the full facial covering (I don't know the proper term). People yelling, cars honking and all forms of transport via for the same coveteted cobble stoned streets in the heart of the old city. Something as seemingly mundane as crossing the street here takes on whole new level of flirting with death or dismemberment. This is not unlike many big cities in the developing world, however nothing can fully prepare you for it, rather you just need to keep your eyes open, your feet light and plunge into the fray like the local smiling 10 year old alongside you. Welcome to the real Middle East.
We are now in Lattakia, a smaller less conservative city of 1 milion. It is on the coast and serves as the main port for Syria. We can watch container ships get loaded from the window of our cheap dingy hotel. We checked out a sweet castle 30km away today that dates from the 11 century. A real cool, big kid kind of place. Tomorrow we go to Palmyra, way out in the eastern desert to see some Roman city ruins.
But by far the thing that has left the greatest impression on us is the Syrian people. I think they are the most friendly and warm people I have ever met in any country, anywhere. We lost count of how many times we have heard "welcome to syria" from smiling, inquisitive faces. All ages, but mostly men, have went out of their way to give us a warm greeting and ask where we are from. Our apprehension builds when we say the US, which is repleyed with "ah americans, very nice." This followed up with "Bush, Bush", with a sense of questioning. Thank goodness we can reply with "Obama, Obama" and we all break out into smiles. They like Obama, they don't like Bush (sound familiar?). Just as we read prior to our trip most folks can seperate politics from the people. They are not used to seeing american here because there are not many americans traveling here, so they actually respond even more positively to us. They want to see americans here. It is a sign to them that we as a global society are moving forward from the not so distant past political blunders and otherwise negative events. It is really refreshing to see, and personally gives me (us) hope for a more peaceful future, both in this region and worldwide.
Okay. Enoegh for now. I can post blogs here in Syria, but I can't read my blog (?). We will keep on the blog as best we can here. Internet access is less available, but of good speed and quality where available.
-CB